Leg 5 – Polonnaruwa to Trincomalee via Habarana

Elephants at Habarana

Leaving the ancient cities

Having had a few days exploring the ancient and ruined sites of Polonnarawa, Sigiriya, Dambulla and Anuradhapura, I’ll be heading east again. This time though it’ll be further north up the coast towards Trincomalee.

Habarana

But before that, and along the way, I’ll stop to visit the elephants at Habarana as seeing too many of these amazing beasts is not possible. Habarana is one of Sri Lanka’s most popular tourist destinations for safari lovers. With a population of only around 7000, it’s now said to have some of the best hotels in Sri Lanka, including guest tree houses.

My bed for a night!

Sir James Emerson Tennant, who was the colonial secretary of Ceylon in the mid 19th century, travelled widely across the island and wrote extensively about it in his book: ‘Ceylon: An account of the island, physical, historical, and topographical with notices of its natural history, antiquities and productions’. Poetically, he describes Trincomalee as ‘presenting to the eye a scene of singular beauty. Landlocked, and still as an inland lake, its broad expanse of waters, its immense beautiful islands, and its rocky headlands, together with the woody acclivities in its vicinity, and towering mountains in the distance, combine to form an oriental Windermere.’

Trincomalee

Tennent’s sketch of Trincomalee’s harbour from Fort Ostenburg

Your age and background may partially determine what image is conjured up for you, if any, at the mention of Trincomalee. Trinco, as it’s affectionately called, was heavily bombed by the Japanese during WW2 so if you were around then you may remember it for that. You may have heard of its strategically advantageous position within the Bay of Bengal in the Indian Ocean, or of its significance as a key and ancient trading port. Or, perhaps for being one of the largest natural deep harbours in the world, including its maritime significance and incredible ammunition tunnels.

Trincomalee Dock

If you’re a baby boomer you may recall Trincomalee being in the national news, especially in the 1980s, as one of the key battleground areas during the 25 year Sri Lankan civil war (1983-2009). It was out of bounds to tourists between those years and even in recent years the north east coastal areas are generally off limits, with Trincomalee considered to be the final outpost for tourists.

Koneswaran Kovil

However, apart from all of this, Trincomalee is perhaps still best known for its religious associations and particularly as a key Tamil place of pilgrimage. The Koneswaram Kovil (Hindu Temple) built on Swarmy Rock over 2000 years ago, is the place to which Hindu devotees still flock.

Helicopter view of the famous kovil

Before I started visiting Sri Lanka I hadn’t heard of Trincomalee, nor about any association with the LTTE (Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam). Since the Sri Lankan civil war ended 12 years ago, and post the clear up operation of the devastating effects of the 2004 Tsunami, Trincomalee has found its place on the tourist map. It’s now become popular for whale-watching, surfing and scuba-diving. Its new beach hotels now merge with the faded colonial buildings and vibrant kovils. I’m hoping this will still be very much on the visiting map when I get there around end of December 2021/January 2022 if Covid permits!

I’d be very interested to hear your views on this leg – please post in the comments box below.

Next upLeg 6 – Up the north east coast ‘road’ from Trincomalee to Mullaitivu – the place of the final defeat by the Sri Lankan army of the LTTE, one of the world’s most committed, effective and ruthless militant organisations which brought an end to the very bloody civil war.

Previous blog – Spotlight on Polonnaruwa

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Comments

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