Centuries ago and up until the 17th century when the Portuguese conquered and killed the last king, Jaffna was a kingdom of its own. It had a rich Sangam (Tamil) literature, historically known as ‘the poetry of the noble ones’. But change came when European traders and invaders arrived, initially from Portugal who brought Catholicism, fortifications and much brutality. A few decades later followed the Dutch with their Presbyterian churches, government buildings and taxation. And then came the British in the 19th century; building roads, railways and schools, along with the English language.
The Jaffna Peninsula is 1000 km2 (approximately 2.5 times the size of the Isle of Wight but with a population fourfold to that, at 800,000). The Peninsula is mostly surrounded by water connected by a small strip of land. Since 2016 Jaffna city has been twinned with the London Borough of Kingston upon Thames with a plan of working together on social and economic development projects to help with the reconstruction post the Civil War.
As the Victorian explorer, Sir James Emerson Tennent, headed north from the Vanni towards the Peninsula he immediately noticed the ‘striking change in the soil, the climate, the productions and the people.’ He spoke highly of the Tamil people in the way they cultivated their land which reminded him of the ‘market-gardens of Fulham and Chelsea’. He found the Tamils intelligent and industrious but found some of their customs ‘barbaric’, ‘deplorable’ and ‘inconceivably vile’, especially those that involved human sacrifice.
It was, and still is, the palmyra tree that is a significant feature of northern Sri Lanka. As with its rival, the coconut tree as they do not grow well in close proximity to each other, the palmyra tree has multifarious uses: fuel, sugar, thatch for roofs, furniture, fencing and toddy are just a few.
Whilst attractions appear somewhat limited in Jaffna as so much of it was destroyed during the 25 year Civil War, there are a couple of other places to see before travelling onto the Jaffna islands. There’s Neguleswarum kovil dedicated to Lord Shiva the supreme being, and close by Keerimalai therapeutic hot springs. These are considered some of the holiest places on earth for around a billion Hindus.
And then onto the dagobas at Kantharodai, just a short drive from Jaffna central. The stupas are thought to be around 2000 years old but their purpose and significance remains very much a mystery.
Next up – Leg 8 – Around the Jaffna islands
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